Stay up-to-date with the latest outdoor adventure stories and get exclusive offers delivered straight to your inbox. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. Encircling the New River Gorge National River area is … Check here for more information. The area splits between crags upstream and downstream from the Highway 19 bridge. Between these areas, there are thousands of routes! That’s high praise for a discipline that currently takes a backseat in the area. Please try again or contact us at support@57hours.com and we’ll resolve the problem. He found some awesome climbs for us despite the weather and generally made sure we had a great time. Our two popular sites for this trip are the Bridge Buttress with a view of the New River Gorge Bridge and Beauty Mountain with a view of the New River rapids. Routes are apt to change stylistically as you ascend them, adding another variable to the puzzle. In times of rain, the Rico Suave Buttress and White Wall at the Kaymoor sector generally stay pretty dry. the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west, “Juan Pablo Tellez, Reckless Abandon 12b, The Coliseum – Summersville Lake, WV, Symon Ardila, Lactic Acid Bath 12.d, The Hole, New River Gorge, WV, imprisonment for not more than six months, A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing. What can begin as a bouldery tiered-roof (my favorite!) Of course, bouldering is also an option! The cliffs are distinct for being long and with few breaks. Please, climb smart! You’ve got to ask yourself one question: Do you feel lucky? The NRG is a National River and one of the oldest in the world. If you’re a big fan of whitewater rafting or climbing, you’re probably already familiar with the New. It’s composed of Nuttall sandstone that is 98% quartz and gives the sensation of climbing on classic granitic igneous if it were embedded with infinite sand-sized crystals. Development of this platform was partially funded by EU. The New River Gorge and surrounding areas have lots of steep rock so there is still dry rock out there in a storm to climb. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. But rain means lush surroundings precipitating verdant greenery… and bugs, so be prepared. Read more. (optional). The rock here is harder than granite (though no match for Mr. Eastwood, of course). Book Online. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). What’s everyone else coming for? A grassroots rock climbing advocacy and anchor-replacement organization in and around WV's New River Gorge. The New River Gorge CVB and the surrounding areas are all focused on the health and well-being of those in our area. There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge. Exposed coal seams are interspersed throughout the stone (which precipitated mining in the area). Okay, I dared. It resides on a 40-acre parcel and is within walking distance of popular crags, including Junkyard. The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). Classic Climbs for The New River Gorge. Showers can be purchased at many of the private campgrounds in the area. A variety of skills and techniques are required to ensure a safe climbing experience. Be safe when climbing in the park. Do not trespass on private land! Likewise, be sure to stop by Fayetteville, a charming post-industrial town that’s remade itself into an outdoor haven. I had a very positive experience, learned so much and had a great time climbing many interesting and fun routes. Park managers are concerned about the impacts of visitors and climbers in the areas of soil erosion and compaction, vegetation damage, human waste disposal, cultural resources, and overcrowding. Check here to review park planning documents and participate in the park planning process. See the camping page for more information. The New River Gorge is known as the best East Coast climbing destination for a reason: There are more than 1,500 established climbing routes in the area. If Clint Eastwood were an East Coast climbing cowboy, the New River Gorge would be his home. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. While DWS (deep-water soloing) is tempting, cliff jumping and diving from six feet or above the water is prohibited. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides is the only AMGA Accredited Business operating at the New River Gorge. Grant has been climbing for over 12 years and teaching in the outdoor industry for a decade. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. More Info. New River Gorge, West Virginia. You’ll find over 3,000 established routes to discover in the area, attracting rock climbers from all over the world. Thanks Matt! The New River is ancient and has pretty much existed in the same spot since before there were Appalachian Mountains. Erosion takes much longer than usual because the rock is so hard; the gorge is still only 900ft deep despite its age. Each day we'll go to a new climbing area from the New River Gorge to Summersville Lake to put new skills to the test. A post shared by New River Gorge National River (@newrivernps) The change will go into effect in early 2021, a few weeks into President elect Joe Biden’s tenure. ... -The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! Within the 63,000 acres of New River Gorge National River are over 1,400 established rock climbs. With that said, it’s hard to beat the variety of fresh local craft beer on tap. We maintain a low camper to guide ratio of 4 to 1 to maximize experiential learning time on the rock. The adventure stories you want in your inbox. Respect all gate, fences, and no trespassing signs. Camping New River Gorge Climbing The New River Gorge is one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. Impromptu New River Gorge Climbing Trip. They are usually open from the second week of March to about the first of December. The Greatest Show area is the cream of the crop and includes Lynn Hill’s Greatest Show On Earth (5.13a trad) and perhaps the first 5.14a in the East, Scott Franklin’s Mango Tango. HOME. There are the NRG itself, the Meadow River Gorge and the Gauley River Gorge, which includes Summersville Lake. The Other Place is well-populated with moderate sport routes and generally stays in the shade. As it wore away, it left the step-like roofs you’ll encounter. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. The gorge reaches 1,600 feet at its maximum depth, or about ⅓ the size of the Grand Canyon. New River Gorge National Park and Preserve has become one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. Kaymoor is a great summer destination featuring shade, steep routes, and big holds, though it stays wet for at least a day after rain. Always change clothes out of view. It sits on the southeast corner of the state. Aaron is a climber and freelance writer. Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! Europe, Mexico. Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 3. New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 01. Classic climbs begin at 5.10+ for trad and 5.11+ for sport. Built in 1974, the New River Gorge Bridge spans over 3,000 feet and connects the east and west banks of the river. At Meadow River Gorge, you are likely to encounter private property en route to the crags. Please seek qualified instruction before venturing onto the cliffs. Lots of 5.12 and 5.13 steep sport routes to … Also in this gallery are a few routes … You’ll have the opportunity to sample some of the world-famous routes that make the New River Gorge synonymous with world-class rock climbing. Do not trespass on private property. “Just coming from out of town, to a climbing area, looking at that guidebook, it’s damn near impossible to climb a route called ‘The Racist’ and go and camp in the woods and not feel like you’re going to get lynched when you go to sleep.” Tackle the cliffs in the 1,000 foot New River Gorge on a Lower New climbing and rappelling trip. Arrowhead Bike Farm is a new addition to the mix that offers easy access to Kaymoor. Here is a select list of crags with dry rock in the rain. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. The last few years have seen an uptick in bouldering locally, in part because of the release of the New River Gorge Bouldering guidebook, which features over 1,000 problems. Parking and Security Routes meander through Cirque du Soleil body contortions as you reach for sharp crimps, finger-thin mail slots, in-cut edges, arêtes and laybacks, globular slopers, and frequent finger and hand jams. Besides the spectacular sandstone, stunning settings, and sheer number of routes (3000 + trad and sport routes from 5.6 to 5.14d), one of the factors that makes the New River Gorge the premier climbing destination in the East is the possibility of year-round climbing. The New River Gorge offers up some of the best climbing in the world. Always acknowledge the landowners' rights. Dare I say? While we are open for business, we want to ensure that everyone has an amazing and safe experience in our region. Leave historical and natural objects undisturbed for the next visitor. The New is a better option for more advanced and all-around climbers than the Red River Gorge, the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west. Glen Jean, WV Camping options include a private site, complete with a 10’x10′ wooden tent platform, and a communal area. Opossum Creek Retreat offers rustic decadence with decked out cabins in the heart of the park. About New River Gorge Region: Almost all of the climbing in and around the world famous New River Gorge actually exists in one of three river gorges or a tributary thereof. Do not trespass, as tensions have ebbed and flowed. Compared to Endless Wall, the climbing here tends to be more featured with pockets, huecos, jugs, and edges. This 5-day overnight camp is geared towards introducing teens to outdoor rock climbing while reinforcing teamwork and cooperation. The same goes for parking; only do so in designated areas as this is becoming an increasing problem with law enforcement. This task is obviously a difficult one, balancing resource protection and visitor use. This tropical-lite destination features over 300 bolted and trad routes alongside and above the clear blue water of Summersville Lake. Picture a lush green landscape with miles and miles of picturesque cliffs. Over one million people visit New River Gorge each year, thousands of whom are climbers. He’d eat the bullet-hard Nuttall with Nutella for breakfast, savor the thrill of high first clips, rejoice in brain-and-body-busting maneuvers, and wash it all down with pure-line bouldering alongside one of the oldest rivers in North America. Then there’s Meadow Top, which has the region’s highest concentration of moderates, and the Sunshine Boulders, picturesquely situated under the longest single-span arch bridge in the U.S. Nearly all climbs are single-pitch and range from 30 to 150 feet in height. Please try again, or contact us at support@57hours.com and we’ll resolve the problem. All their head instructors are AMGA certified rock instructors or single-pitch instructors. Our guide Matt was wonderful. Fishing is one of the most popular activities on the New River. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. It’s catered more to mountain bikers, featuring an on-site bike rental & gear shop and Biergarten (beer garden). The New River Gorge, WV rock climbing is composed of three river gorges - New, Gauley, and Meadow. The prices are reasonable for groups, though they surely explode a dirtbagger’s budget. Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, water sources, historic sites, or the top rim of the cliffs. There are over 1,400 established rock climbing routes in the gorge, running the gamut of formations from Utah-style splitter cracks to tricky arêtes. Annual rainfall is about 50 inches, which is approaching temperate rainforest levels. Travel Destinations. Climbing has inherent risks and hazards, and is a potentially dangerous activity. Many of the climbing locations are located miles from roads, and rescue is difficult. Just one caveat (and a note to the newbies): The New is best suited for the hard-charging climber who likes a challenge. Please note that climbers make a significant contribution to the local economy! If you need any gear or beta, visit the storied climbing shop, Water Stone Outdoors. Hide or remove all valuables while climbing, and lock vehicles. There are many private campgrounds located within easy driving distance from the climbing areas. Get in-depth reviews and expert advice to help you start planning your next big outdoor adventure. MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING. Summer temps can reach into the 90s, turning the humid air into thick molasses. New River Mountain Guides: Climber owned and operated since 1994, and run in conjunction with Water Stone Outdoors. Meadow River Gorge is for more adventurous and remote climbing, even though it’s just 15 minutes north of NRG Proper. TWENTY YEARS AND GOING STRONG! A guidebook is an essential tool for locating climbs, and local climbing shops can offer information and specific recommendations. Email Us. Area 51 is easier to access and has long routes. You can read more of his work at aarongerry.com, What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? TEEN ROCK CAMP. You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link in our emails. Other activities include riding the Gravity Zipline, a 1.5-mile tour 200 feet above the ground or a down-to-earth walk along the iconic New River Gorge Bridge. Box 246, 104 Main Street It could help river advocates fight for cleaner water running through the gorge and should ensure access to the world-class climbing inside the new park boundaries for generations to come. There are many areas of private property within the New River Gorge, including some within the park boundary. Thank you for subscribing to our newsletter. Jonathan Siegrist climbing the crux boulder problem that follows a long section of 5.14. “Almost Heaven, West Virginia.” The New River Gorge has it all — trad, sport, bouldering, and enough routes to keep you climbing for a lifetime (more than 3000, to be exact). The local climbers I’ve spoken with say that no one they know has ever been fined but it’s worth noting the area’s regulations. Most crags have a 15-minute approach, though longer treks can be up to 45 minutes, with some requiring a ladder or rappel to get to the base. Many of the developers were over six feet tall, so prepare for long moves and spaced out bolts. Southside Crags: This is the area on the left side of the river. Private Property Primitive camping is allowed on park property. Share. New River Gorge Outdoor and Climbing Gear. 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